by Lisa McKinnon
lmckinnon@VenturaCountyStar.com
Ventura County Star; October 16, 2005

The future of the Top Hat Burger Palace in downtown Ventura may raise complicated issues. But the fare, represented by the dishes described here, couldn't be more simple - or more conducive to creating a spike in your cholesterol count.

Top Hat Special, $3
Newcomers have to ask, but regulars already know: "Top Hat Special" is menu-speak for a double hamburger that comes with a slice of white cheese melting between its two patties, their edges slightly crispy from time spent on the vintage grill. For additional crunch, ask for a sprinkling of rough-dice onions.

Top Hat Chili Special, $3
Same as the Special, only with chili. The burger is served tucked into the origami folds of a paper wrapper that helps keep all that rust-red chili from dripping onto your clothes.

Chili Cheese Dog, $2.25
Is there really a hot dog under there? It's hard to tell, so slathered with chili is this signature item. It consists of a bun, shredded orange cheese, a mild-mannered hot dog and so much chili that its paper serving tray looks like a tiny, above-ground swimming pool. They give you a fork with this dog, but if ever there was a time for a spork - a spoon with fork tines - this is it.

Fish Burger, $3.25
With the county's oldest Catholic church - aka San Buenaventura Mission - just down the block, this sandwich is a big seller on no-meat Fridays. Balanced between its mayo-daubed buns is a deep-fried, crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside square of mild-tasting fish that has been pressed into a slightly ribbed patty and plopped atop a pile of shredded lettuce . . . which promptly wilts from the heat of the fish.

Chili Cheese Fries, $2
For this dish described as a "must try" by Top Hat regulars, a fistful of fries is laid lengthwise in a paper serving tray and then smothered in chili and orange cheese. (Diced onions are optional but recommended.) The fries may turn soggy under the veritable lava flow of chili, but this is comfort food at its most comforting. Until you start feeling the gastric backlash a few hours later,
that is.